tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-56987586032786002292024-03-05T14:50:59.697-08:00The GoldMember ChroniclesThis is my journal on the build up of my Honda drag car. It serves to remind myself on how much time and effort (money too!) that have been poured into the build up. Perhaps it may also provide some good information to other fellow enthusiasts who have the same interest.GoldMember74http://www.blogger.com/profile/07331385327047458223noreply@blogger.comBlogger17125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5698758603278600229.post-51613330945305490312012-03-29T06:36:00.004-07:002012-03-31T20:47:34.851-07:00Here comes the GoldMember...So at the conclusion of SDB Round 2 of 2009, I bought this 1992 2-door Civic EH2 (local version of JDM's Honda EG) at a price of RM21,000.00. It was Blue in color, with SOHC engine and bolt-on tiny turbo system. The color was somewhat unusual locally, I have no idea what is is called. Here's what it looked like the first day I brought it home.<br />
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So I drove this car around with this color and this turbo engine for a while, like for about 3 months. Didn't quite excite me though.<br />
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In the meantime, I race my EK again in SDB Round 3 in July of 2009.<br />
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With some friends at the pitt.<br />
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Here's the owner of the fast Civic Si, Mr Poji.<br />
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Busy traffic at the pitt exit.<br />
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View from the starting line, waiting for our turn to run. <br />
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Ok now it's my turn to race.<br />
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In the end, I ended up doing worse from the previous round. The best time for this round was 15.879s. Last time I managed to clock 15.735s. It was high time to start transfering this engine into the GoldMember.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnDa6QxVVw84vIfrWyPDIisjX6oVFqUOHOj0yprHCJJgodPGhA4GN2CdgKi45SxgYMdfmLyjYbuJkkP7ytHdJc0-1bGcIKQMJT9Z-iYWnacLNqmbEht6J0pxQr0ASgyX7Lq_fcYVUF_s8z/s1600/timing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnDa6QxVVw84vIfrWyPDIisjX6oVFqUOHOj0yprHCJJgodPGhA4GN2CdgKi45SxgYMdfmLyjYbuJkkP7ytHdJc0-1bGcIKQMJT9Z-iYWnacLNqmbEht6J0pxQr0ASgyX7Lq_fcYVUF_s8z/s640/timing.jpg" width="488" /></a></div>GoldMember74http://www.blogger.com/profile/07331385327047458223noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5698758603278600229.post-37774400909765587662012-03-29T04:36:00.001-07:002012-03-31T20:49:10.232-07:00Let's race it againAnd here I was again, in Round 2 of the Sepang Drag Battle 2009. Not much changes was done to the car. Except perhaps some fine tuning on the Hondata, which I was learning to do it by myself as well. Hopefully in the future, I could reduce my dependency to my friend Zaki for tuning help and do it myself, without blowing the engine in the process, of course. Well, in the course of learning, one will have to accept some failures, including killing a few engines in the process. I just hope it won't happen too fast though!<br />
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Here's me doing some final touches before the race starts.<br />
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Everything in the engine bay remained the same.<br />
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So was the car.<br />
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And here's the result (see car no. 26). I had managed to improve the timing from 17.048s to 15.735s this time. But it was still way too slow to catch up with the rest of the guys. Hence this was when I decided to look for a lighter chasis. It was then the true birth of the GoldMember as it is now.<br />
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Here are some other cars at the race, from various categories.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghZJuLWe0_c4lg-v9Lzo-HEr0956vtc0Oih8Q0hog76SWd9Iu65Ot-iFwz9igThGowVCoFgAeIO7fFezBtOJRsbpeUUkb5c9t_b5q96OzNEqMz3dBJQvFENlXW5dAeP1e0ugKoe0OrC3ik/s1600/SDB2070.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghZJuLWe0_c4lg-v9Lzo-HEr0956vtc0Oih8Q0hog76SWd9Iu65Ot-iFwz9igThGowVCoFgAeIO7fFezBtOJRsbpeUUkb5c9t_b5q96OzNEqMz3dBJQvFENlXW5dAeP1e0ugKoe0OrC3ik/s320/SDB2070.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>GoldMember74http://www.blogger.com/profile/07331385327047458223noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5698758603278600229.post-55486095064437538882012-03-29T04:01:00.000-07:002012-03-29T04:01:01.560-07:00Let's race itSo with all done (hopefully!), now it's time to test the machine on track. I brought the car with this engine to participate in Class F (Road Legal Category) at Round 1 of the <a href="http://www.malaysiangp.com.my/race/10" target="_blank">Sepang Drag Battle</a> 2009. I didn't expect to win or even qualify for quarter final round with this car, since the competition includes many smaller and lighter cars with more engine power. I would just be happy if it can just survive the race, so that I can drive it home after the race, and bring me to work on Monday.<br />
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So here it is at the pit.<br />
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And here's how it did on track.<br />
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Here's a friend's car, which is using a DOHC non-VTEC Si engine, which was way faster than mine. Much better power-to-weight ratio perhaps. Plus the driver is a much more experienced drag racer than I am. It's a nice classic civic very well maintained and restored nonetheless.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDheM29XlhUMj28k54Y-r2wp8cuXVaNbDaQrU8mylwmAmkNj3mAeTo_SHRUakpXFlYJgFTK8xmAO9s8n4HmQwno3-c726GhMkLjRea_cNz6LPdY_CggCHBCZ-FMLPX1XraRf8Fii0wKlL6/s1600/DSC04368.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDheM29XlhUMj28k54Y-r2wp8cuXVaNbDaQrU8mylwmAmkNj3mAeTo_SHRUakpXFlYJgFTK8xmAO9s8n4HmQwno3-c726GhMkLjRea_cNz6LPdY_CggCHBCZ-FMLPX1XraRf8Fii0wKlL6/s320/DSC04368.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>GoldMember74http://www.blogger.com/profile/07331385327047458223noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5698758603278600229.post-14374644312817958632011-12-27T05:49:00.000-08:002011-12-27T05:49:52.209-08:00The Dyno TuningThe engine went through several session of dyno tunings. This was off course done after the engine has been broken-in for approximately 1000km. There are multiple methods of engine break-in out there, each of them has its pros and cons. Since I was not really in a hurry, so I had chosen the conventional way of the 1000km road travel.<br />
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And it went through several sessions of dyno tuning, since every time there are more adjustments to be made, some tweaking here and there, and due to availability of the dyno machine, the sessions had to be carried out in different locations each time, but all the machines are the same (DynoJet), so the results are hopefully consistent.<br />
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Here's the car all strapped up on a dyno in a workshop somewhere in Damansara area (can't remember the exact name of the place).<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwjlPzKEGolgcDDMHKOcDlnpEVInk9iB6MK6DTqIa1lnA2kTLw_sn2odxYsl9QxmuscS-HihCeuld755BDMHDEcCXGxXuD0iRB3UVW3KxM-9QcwQt_e_94x_AvyNRjyx6wPrtjjB8IA9TX/s1600/DSC04619.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwjlPzKEGolgcDDMHKOcDlnpEVInk9iB6MK6DTqIa1lnA2kTLw_sn2odxYsl9QxmuscS-HihCeuld755BDMHDEcCXGxXuD0iRB3UVW3KxM-9QcwQt_e_94x_AvyNRjyx6wPrtjjB8IA9TX/s320/DSC04619.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Final checks on the engine before starting the run.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWdK8optEO69Ut6SXMidyEHKiqwQzDQplNerHbYPrN1R3UyTi8RCEhj_6KbJ3Jdk_O0AAd64R1ifgbEj5xsIG7Id8JvFQZN7fEAXIeuXVZUwrPlrM94XRGub8aQslAkCXE0mSuMffvuYAa/s1600/DSC04621.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWdK8optEO69Ut6SXMidyEHKiqwQzDQplNerHbYPrN1R3UyTi8RCEhj_6KbJ3Jdk_O0AAd64R1ifgbEj5xsIG7Id8JvFQZN7fEAXIeuXVZUwrPlrM94XRGub8aQslAkCXE0mSuMffvuYAa/s320/DSC04621.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>And this my my good friend Zaki, who helped me on the tuning. He had also given me many tuning lessons on Crome and Hondata. He is certainly a very good tuner and is willing to share his knowledge and experience to most of us, so he is highly recommended for tuning solution.<br />
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As I mentioned earlier, the engine went through several dyno tuning sessions. So I'm kind of lost track as to when, where and which dyno sheet associated with the session, so I'm just going to post all of them here.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf2OtBFuMSauKUk5hODZGk7rCNVEwrjWXxYNg0mYvBsef6hyphenhyphenABpD8DlK1jokZhWOjopAPcpW7V-8JcF_b6tMqp7r9M9MA_npZ4ME2SuEm_EPMZYBx2BGk5p5l7ps1ZGIW2OXCNrgxZgkgY/s1600/dyno6_April2009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf2OtBFuMSauKUk5hODZGk7rCNVEwrjWXxYNg0mYvBsef6hyphenhyphenABpD8DlK1jokZhWOjopAPcpW7V-8JcF_b6tMqp7r9M9MA_npZ4ME2SuEm_EPMZYBx2BGk5p5l7ps1ZGIW2OXCNrgxZgkgY/s320/dyno6_April2009.jpg" width="225" /></a></div>GoldMember74http://www.blogger.com/profile/07331385327047458223noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5698758603278600229.post-7586868848056872902011-10-20T04:47:00.000-07:002011-10-20T05:00:49.594-07:00Now's Let's Put All the Stuffs Together.....OK I think I have covered everything, well most of it. Might have missed a few items, but it'll be covered along the way. The journey is still long. Well some said it never ends. There is always something to be modded. Well it's true.<br />
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At the time of the engine completion, the Goldmember chasis is not around yet. So I had to use my daily ride, a Honda Civic EK3, as the test bench of this engine. Here's what it looks like in its engine bay.<br />
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To ignite the Air and Fuel, I opted for the MSD Ignition system. I hope to be able to eliminate one of Honda most problematic area, it's "fragile" distributor. There have been so many cases of distributor failure in Honda's B-series engine, during races and even during daily commute to work. The stock distributor just can't cope with the frequent high revving engine, so either its coil or ignitor would just give way without a warning. I managed to get a used MSD 6AL Ignition Box (the now discontinued P/N 6420) at a cheap price to amplify the ignition spark. Then I get it to work with an MSD SS Coil (P/N 8207) to replace the stock internal coil, together with MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor plug cables, then the MSD Distributor cap (P/N 82921) which comes with an additional tower for connecting to the external coil. Here's where I had them installed in the engine bay.<br />
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Passenger side view of the engine bay. Note the clearance provided by the FAL Radiator fan. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJlNrDA9R0YY8T1q2VUzA71hNjRBCCwuhaolCRc__MCV5B0IIpm6fJNlrvoa_b7AYvqR_u5lMLTP4ijekS2ZmgBexMJGCvr6GCVPm6tNl3JAUqxhTuJBchNWTCjyi_0-wimj301LaVN_OQ/s1600/DSC05682.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJlNrDA9R0YY8T1q2VUzA71hNjRBCCwuhaolCRc__MCV5B0IIpm6fJNlrvoa_b7AYvqR_u5lMLTP4ijekS2ZmgBexMJGCvr6GCVPm6tNl3JAUqxhTuJBchNWTCjyi_0-wimj301LaVN_OQ/s320/DSC05682.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
To ease up the crankcase pressure, I replaced the stock breather box with the unit produced by Endyn Engineering, which has a feedback pipe to feed the captured engine oil back into circulation in the engine block.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixL4x4GFl1LWiX0zG5qMMbjhL8jnVFFVccnvL8l001nv9Lw9nV_bvMCGyLKIwibA6iB4S8zRZGwEe3s4DLBoOUDyTSJZn-XAGKDQ_yfDnB82Mcy-qRihUJHi9f13C8iQxT3VHZhwo-3lYy/s1600/DSC05690.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixL4x4GFl1LWiX0zG5qMMbjhL8jnVFFVccnvL8l001nv9Lw9nV_bvMCGyLKIwibA6iB4S8zRZGwEe3s4DLBoOUDyTSJZn-XAGKDQ_yfDnB82Mcy-qRihUJHi9f13C8iQxT3VHZhwo-3lYy/s320/DSC05690.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>A smaller breather filter is added to release the head pressure and deal with the blow-by, not very effective I must say, but it'll do for now. In the future, I will be adding another one of those Endyn's Breather Tank just for the head cover..<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWYfLq9CUob2-_lfhho6OsZaDq8ibamovHAi0yQKZQbp9JTtiHLiFa2hD_kfn-KoUyOOfLutneIPg7AucZ1IsJNC0ggl0YwNhhyv9M5MeQ7zMxhXXbFB4hdjRuhngT7HxXKMwaz4Cy8zr9/s1600/DSC05692.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWYfLq9CUob2-_lfhho6OsZaDq8ibamovHAi0yQKZQbp9JTtiHLiFa2hD_kfn-KoUyOOfLutneIPg7AucZ1IsJNC0ggl0YwNhhyv9M5MeQ7zMxhXXbFB4hdjRuhngT7HxXKMwaz4Cy8zr9/s320/DSC05692.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Another view of the Breather Tank, MSD distributor cap and the AEM Cold Air Intake pipe.<br />
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The cold air is delivered by the AEM Cold Air Intake through its pipe that goes all the way down to the driver side's front bumper.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtyw9QdRbJNOJuG0-n6i1BpkHSaor49TRTbosyMVxEgnd18B6EAxdSS9XcSTq46LxuBpnjmO04PuduTHifv0KmVB8o7wRZXUWOzIhEIhtAC6PPxmwC6e1pYNAcWtb8IskhJhYysIGPbEmL/s1600/DSC05698.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtyw9QdRbJNOJuG0-n6i1BpkHSaor49TRTbosyMVxEgnd18B6EAxdSS9XcSTq46LxuBpnjmO04PuduTHifv0KmVB8o7wRZXUWOzIhEIhtAC6PPxmwC6e1pYNAcWtb8IskhJhYysIGPbEmL/s320/DSC05698.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWrimi5iFdzKgb0mVKCkgyoMjmDjc_BFRcDsgtcdulga4X940eQIGOVXk4MgH7i03UtBWrCFKHVtLN-MibkPk5kgs24owDWc3haES4x0LTFOBhKTp3G4v11LI0YJN71pFiXjyUPmEh1-6O/s1600/DSC05699.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWrimi5iFdzKgb0mVKCkgyoMjmDjc_BFRcDsgtcdulga4X940eQIGOVXk4MgH7i03UtBWrCFKHVtLN-MibkPk5kgs24owDWc3haES4x0LTFOBhKTp3G4v11LI0YJN71pFiXjyUPmEh1-6O/s320/DSC05699.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
I drilled a hole in the bumper to help channel the rushing air to the AEM air filter in the bumper. During race, I remove the air filter altogether and replaced it with a Blox Racing Velocity Stack.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBHvVdA7_kJwUaZ3urUSg1rTv39L19KpxKEqhsGtB9UJHGUWiWyUvNBuXHBpLy-1O89ErIHleWHitTsWE_O11m4ZXQsg5I4yVkHQ98mSoMU98PeOZtS7ahQM2-HV33_vtGO89WNnKi6oVL/s1600/DSC05709.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBHvVdA7_kJwUaZ3urUSg1rTv39L19KpxKEqhsGtB9UJHGUWiWyUvNBuXHBpLy-1O89ErIHleWHitTsWE_O11m4ZXQsg5I4yVkHQ98mSoMU98PeOZtS7ahQM2-HV33_vtGO89WNnKi6oVL/s320/DSC05709.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>The exhaust gas is extracted from the engine through a J's Racing 4-2-1 header. I was still researching for a US-made header at that moment. More on this later.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg_GB8twySwyvrtBJyiVAtM3okWsA0GnBVCAv4N7VmrRy5dgPuNOoNn4cl3rX4JtqSj6M4_CQuV7Hku_1gjegb_ro24M0u0WCd4HNPK02UF_gQUvCHifO_MMHrf5jg-cwU7xQHrDSyarPw/s1600/DSC05694.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg_GB8twySwyvrtBJyiVAtM3okWsA0GnBVCAv4N7VmrRy5dgPuNOoNn4cl3rX4JtqSj6M4_CQuV7Hku_1gjegb_ro24M0u0WCd4HNPK02UF_gQUvCHifO_MMHrf5jg-cwU7xQHrDSyarPw/s320/DSC05694.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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A set of Full Race ProStreet Traction bars helps plant the tires to the road to avoid wheel hop during high rpm launch.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-J5fOm-YY7E-NwxP6RiK1nT8Uc0yjN4YAni3HoRQ4qeWCN2nbAiVKZM3uzlZhtmuEMvmI0tWKi63bLyEiZ2WMsKOufFdwVCQYAe6Sjw9Z_58_rHzrcnUUM3HtXixngoS_4zrX9nsoibGQ/s1600/DSC05697.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-J5fOm-YY7E-NwxP6RiK1nT8Uc0yjN4YAni3HoRQ4qeWCN2nbAiVKZM3uzlZhtmuEMvmI0tWKi63bLyEiZ2WMsKOufFdwVCQYAe6Sjw9Z_58_rHzrcnUUM3HtXixngoS_4zrX9nsoibGQ/s320/DSC05697.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
The cams are being set to its specified centerline. Any advancing and/or retarding of the individual cams will be done on the dyno, if necessary.<br />
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I added an Ingalls Engine Torque Damper, to help reduce the engine movement in high acceleration, hence reducing the wear on the engine mounts.<br />
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Final views of the completed engine bay.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiCHcBETpMddNIbm27gdvp2U_cZIo0iMg-uaxk_qUHmDZ4Ry7trGFUQuTilgUlrySK4In7CGISF0WDPLwXvPsZ8eIRYBHuUCVK0rKCfVza-lWnfSqpWN-4yT8xNtg_e3PBd1nq4awP9OLc/s1600/DSC05701.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiCHcBETpMddNIbm27gdvp2U_cZIo0iMg-uaxk_qUHmDZ4Ry7trGFUQuTilgUlrySK4In7CGISF0WDPLwXvPsZ8eIRYBHuUCVK0rKCfVza-lWnfSqpWN-4yT8xNtg_e3PBd1nq4awP9OLc/s320/DSC05701.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKSscRmX2ekJnUrGwh7fcWXmb0JZ9Gd1DHtEdk2zEaa6XWvA6r7fwb9XI2mKsNibbtY5C_-F5JQYSy-1QRc8rGI6HgavCIl0T1KhkZKBwYP7OIvClYN-WGjcLB0PBIv3Hkc9PYpL5ZQGoz/s1600/DSC05700.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKSscRmX2ekJnUrGwh7fcWXmb0JZ9Gd1DHtEdk2zEaa6XWvA6r7fwb9XI2mKsNibbtY5C_-F5JQYSy-1QRc8rGI6HgavCIl0T1KhkZKBwYP7OIvClYN-WGjcLB0PBIv3Hkc9PYpL5ZQGoz/s320/DSC05700.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Now, it's time to hit the dyno!GoldMember74http://www.blogger.com/profile/07331385327047458223noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5698758603278600229.post-5787429652613350102011-08-07T04:29:00.000-07:002011-08-07T04:30:34.182-07:00Breathing Cooler AirIt's a well known fact that colder air has higher O<span style="font-size: x-small;">2</span> density than hot air. Hence if we could supply as much cold air as possible into the combustion chamber, we will have a better chance of increasing the power output of the engine. So that's being the motivation, it's time to look for the best Cold Air Intake (CAI) system available.<br />
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After much readings, it seems that the AEM cold air intake is best intake system on the market. Many have proven via dyno result that this system makes the most power of ANY intake system in the market, in comparison with other brands such Iceman, Weapon R, RS Akimoto, PRM, etc. Some of the reasons include how the system was engineered where AEM claimed that they "tunes" the system to each application - the length of the overall tubing, the diameter of the tubing, and the minimal number of bends all work together to make this system create the maximum power from your motor. In addition, the tubes are ceramic-coated, which reduces the absorption of heat from the engine bay.<br />
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So I've decided to go with AEM. Unfortunately, I 've made a mistake during ordering the correct P/N for the CAI. There are so many models available in AEM's catalog. So I thought I should go with the one that is meant for the chasis i.e. 4 door EK. I ended up with this:<br />
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Upon its arrival, I found out that it didn't fit my EK's engine bay. The design of the pipe requires it to go through a hole at the chasis beam behind the headlight, which my EK doesn't has that. I can either drill a hole for the pipe to go through, or sell it off and buy the correct one. I decided to go with the latter, and the AEM CAI fits nicely in my friend's EJ (locally assembled EK i.e. Malaysian Domestic Market or MDM).<br />
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Back to AEM catalog, after much studying on the model numbers, I then realized that there is in fact a hybrid unit that is meant for B-series engine transplant into the Civics. The unit comes in a larger pipe diameter at 3", instead of 2.5" like my previous unit. It is obvious now that this is the one for me. How here it is, as it arrived to me:<br />
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The good thing about this unit is that it comes with the replacement bracket for the gearbox, so we can discard the bulky and ugly front gearbox bracket, and replace it with the nice and shiny bracket in the bottom left of the above photo. I'll show you how it looks in the engine bay later on.<br />
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The air filter is grey in color instead of white.<br />
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This is the Air Bypass Valve, which is meant to avoid the intake system from sucking water into the engine. If there is an occasion where there is a heavy rain or the car is being driven through a pool of water that the end of the intake is completely submerged, this handy thingy is supposed to let air comes through it (instead of from the end of the pipe) thus avoiding water from being sucked into the engine and kills it. But I am not going to install it, since I usually don't go trouble myself driving through a pool of water on the road if I see them (although that is sometimes quite hard to avoid in this country by the way).GoldMember74http://www.blogger.com/profile/07331385327047458223noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5698758603278600229.post-29023753349599074602011-08-05T06:55:00.000-07:002011-08-05T06:55:21.850-07:00Fueling the FireIn the past, I had encountered several occasions on the dyno where the tuner said something like: "Can't go higher (whp), fuel <i>maxed out</i> already!". I'm sure many of us have had the same problem during our crave for more power out of the engine. To those who are unfamiliar with the term, it means that the stock fuel system can no longer be tweaked any further to supply more fuel to the combustion chamber to make more power.<br />
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Because of the modifications done to the cylinder head, as well as replacement of the intake manifold and throttle body, and usage of higher profile camshafts, the amount of air that is rushing into the combustion chamber has increased significantly. To take advantage of this, more fuel is needed to keep the Air/Fuel ratio at its optimum level to produce the much desired power. Coupled with proper ignition tuning, we should be able to fine tune the engine to work exactly like what we want it to, when we want it to. Good idle when standing still, and when we floor the paddle, it would give us a big grin in face. Because of this, fuel system upgrade is essential!<br />
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The first to look at is the fuel pump. The stock fuel pump is said to be more than enough for application up to 200whp. That should be enough for the engine that I am building now. Nevertheless, I have replaced the stock fuel pump with one from the EP3 Civic Type R, since the later is relatively newer than the stock fuel pump that might have been there in the tank since 1996. So hopefully it'll perform better and will last longer. Some said that its flow rate is somewhat higher than the stock pump, but I can't find a written data to support that claim. The pump looks exactly like the stock fuel pump, so there's no need for its photo .<br />
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Next is the fuel filter. I went for the AEM unit. The manufacturer claimed that it flows better than OEM filter. But honestly, I picked it because it look nicer than then stock unit, and add colors to the engine bay.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggFUR-ANPPuNEr2K7wxjU5Z9NH83JrxmUDOt2pNBB8KJLVVTlTCOgV-1R_JRwDiFENBNs2jLt6rNagn66Guc3GJ5aKL9H09jnvadG2Hnfq6Mul29SXR6n2STUtWMFuj4pL98HMpfrSDDeM/s1600/DSC01428.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggFUR-ANPPuNEr2K7wxjU5Z9NH83JrxmUDOt2pNBB8KJLVVTlTCOgV-1R_JRwDiFENBNs2jLt6rNagn66Guc3GJ5aKL9H09jnvadG2Hnfq6Mul29SXR6n2STUtWMFuj4pL98HMpfrSDDeM/s320/DSC01428.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Exiting from the filter, I have replaced the stock fuel hose with a stainless steel braided unit by Russell. Unfortunately I forgot to take a photo of it, but it's a complete kit that looks like this:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirbE2Lj1YTnOLA7WwlUIU0oBpO06n92ZPwq3PHhK81MuKVdGcp_vuw7z1eONFSnjACfGZftkMyQnbWRX1DgudKEphn68LN7bfyXfE3UHl1N6qJkldxqJbLEKi9wXC-Ig8DCzcketq58skA/s1600/320d9f4c-7de5-4c91-961e-b11d0d830e5e-420.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirbE2Lj1YTnOLA7WwlUIU0oBpO06n92ZPwq3PHhK81MuKVdGcp_vuw7z1eONFSnjACfGZftkMyQnbWRX1DgudKEphn68LN7bfyXfE3UHl1N6qJkldxqJbLEKi9wXC-Ig8DCzcketq58skA/s320/320d9f4c-7de5-4c91-961e-b11d0d830e5e-420.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>The hose is then attached to the Skunk2 Composite Fuel Rail, that is lighter and stronger (as well as nicer) that the stock rail, and claimed by the manufacturer to cause the fuel to flow at a much colder temperature than the stock metal unit.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCNb7x62Yz5kqZnTltE3Q5BVW617F7Kr-Q9MYPmcA7wWALNpBADiI3x2TmUHOHBYgkfbslwvpY0dgO3NzeXjzNdEJ2zNYrA4z_ZJeVYR4lPpiXuDDq9dwm0W8cwKD-6d0bK1DJVwLh4EM5/s1600/DSC02867.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCNb7x62Yz5kqZnTltE3Q5BVW617F7Kr-Q9MYPmcA7wWALNpBADiI3x2TmUHOHBYgkfbslwvpY0dgO3NzeXjzNdEJ2zNYrA4z_ZJeVYR4lPpiXuDDq9dwm0W8cwKD-6d0bK1DJVwLh4EM5/s320/DSC02867.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Finally, the task of spraying the fuel directly into the combustion chamber is given to a set of 370cc RC Engineering saturated fuel injectors. This should give sufficient fuel for my current application, as well as future modification if I decide to go with higher requirement (if the injectors last that long!).<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi88ui9u4K5YPOe30SY5DdbGe_cExHt4fXsofdr0lEKenamiUdN-_tWDgLjjsSyHRUCXZ1wLiu1n5i2mVcG7FL0VLtEHrqtmyraCRZz9YidswfV93YpiLA6SVVa-pMeOE15-J01vjqfF0KE/s1600/DSC01423.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi88ui9u4K5YPOe30SY5DdbGe_cExHt4fXsofdr0lEKenamiUdN-_tWDgLjjsSyHRUCXZ1wLiu1n5i2mVcG7FL0VLtEHrqtmyraCRZz9YidswfV93YpiLA6SVVa-pMeOE15-J01vjqfF0KE/s320/DSC01423.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxH9-d4wGd5Ymc805KQmzydo2dSNjTAcA7QNwKakzq3AwhgAw0vbkauwVhizz9YlYSlSUEjZBc3dkNqVbbwB_LbfZQXE6p1uim2WIEVONG7Ry6m9moNcctGdfqXKrPO6TfJaL0Z7OWKGep/s1600/DSC01424.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxH9-d4wGd5Ymc805KQmzydo2dSNjTAcA7QNwKakzq3AwhgAw0vbkauwVhizz9YlYSlSUEjZBc3dkNqVbbwB_LbfZQXE6p1uim2WIEVONG7Ry6m9moNcctGdfqXKrPO6TfJaL0Z7OWKGep/s320/DSC01424.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>GoldMember74http://www.blogger.com/profile/07331385327047458223noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5698758603278600229.post-83639956240552059032011-07-31T05:16:00.000-07:002011-07-31T05:16:00.231-07:00Static Compression RatioOK all these while I have been talking about this compression ratio (CR) thingy. What is it actually? In simple words, it is just the ratio between the Volume of the Combustion Chamber when the piston is at the bottom-most of its travel (Bottom Dead Center = BDC) divided by the Volume of the Combustion Chamber when the piston is at the top-most of its travel (Top Dead Center = TDC). It's a direct effect of the combination of several components of the engine internals, and there are physics and mathematical calculations to measure these CR.<br />
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Sounds complicated? If you're "smart" like me, then don't trouble your brain to study the formulas, dimensions and thermodynamics of all the mechanical stuffs in the engine to calculate your static CR. There are many readily available online calculators nowadays. Just pick one (or several) of those calculators, key in the necessary numbers, and it's calculate the CR right away. All these calculators are estimates though, but it's good enough to make a quick check to see whether you have the good recipe for power, or heading for destruction.<br />
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I often use this calculator by <a href="http://www.zealautowerks.com/">Zeal Autowerks</a> for my calculation. So far it is the most accurate one there is. It also has the customized calculator for <a href="http://www.zealautowerks.com/bseries.html">B-Series</a>. Here's a sample calculation of the static CR of the engine that I am building now:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7HvVmMVyi7uoTRvzJkglf9TC4pq3ZPUpCCfYj2g-JdpeFCK96cGuoCFh5ZNMWKAtHJPb1CnGUfHy_qjT-WG3MJWc9RJ0rulJATxs0LAZQqMkHPI1Wx4u_V70eW_0caY-QBZLI0evXZflH/s1600/CR1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7HvVmMVyi7uoTRvzJkglf9TC4pq3ZPUpCCfYj2g-JdpeFCK96cGuoCFh5ZNMWKAtHJPb1CnGUfHy_qjT-WG3MJWc9RJ0rulJATxs0LAZQqMkHPI1Wx4u_V70eW_0caY-QBZLI0evXZflH/s320/CR1.jpg" width="247" /></a></div>If you insist on studying the mathematical calculations behind calculator like these, I recommend you to read it <a href="http://www.team-integra.net/forum/blogs/michaeldelaney/65-compression-ratio-explained-static-dynamic.html">here</a>.GoldMember74http://www.blogger.com/profile/07331385327047458223noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5698758603278600229.post-57723973902054535312011-07-20T09:37:00.000-07:002011-07-20T09:37:26.509-07:00OMG....I'm so in love with coupes.....Commercial break, folks!<br />
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Can the owner of this cool car please call me? I want to buy your car! Just name your price, dude!<br />
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OK jokes asides, I really love EK coupe. But the selling price is damn crazy in this country. I may never be able to own one of these here anytime soon, at this salary, without selling my soul to the devils first. By the time its price may reach a reasonable figure, it might already be too old and too costly to rebuild it to Auto Show condition. Or I might already be too old myself to still be playing cars!<br />
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Oh well, dreaming is free!GoldMember74http://www.blogger.com/profile/07331385327047458223noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5698758603278600229.post-24515637915749063072011-07-20T09:03:00.000-07:002011-07-20T09:22:08.647-07:00Intake: Breathing ApparatusThe Skunk2 Pro Series intake manifold is, by far, looks much nicer than the Type R ones. OK that sound so immature, judging the quality of stuffs from its mere physical outlook. The good build quality and professional looks are off course bonus points, but the true and dyno proven fact is the Skunk2 intake manifold is definitely better than the OEM Type R intake. The <a href="http://www.skunk2.com/engine-2.php?code=INPROB">Skunk2</a> website stated that their manifold increases the engine horsepower for about 8% from the stock manifold, that's a good enough reason for me to get it, while improving the looks of the engine bay as well. Beware of imitation though!<br />
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The Throttle Body inlet of an original Skunk2 manifold is able to be bored to a maximum of 75mm diameter to satisfy those <i>"Gila Kuasa"</i> people like you (and me!), you can't do that on the fake ones without destroying it in the process.<br />
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The plenum is larger than the OEM, and the more obvious difference is the re-design of the runner for cylinder No.1, which improves the air flow significantly. I'm not making claims for Skunk2, I make no money in promoting their product (I wish I do though!), but these are also based on cumulative personal experience and dyno runs by people I know. <br />
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It might not be the best one out there as well, but it sure is the best bang-for-buck manifold for builder with tight budget like me. If money is not a problem to you, then I'll recommend you to get this <a href="http://bisimoto.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_9_141_142&products_id=451">one</a> instead (yummy!). Me? I literally might have to sell one of my kidney (and perhaps testicles as well!) to afford one of these.<br />
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I went for the 68mm Skunk2 Pro Series throttle body for this build. At that time the biggest size available was 70mm. But remember, I will also be driving this engine to work. Too big the throttle body, and you may have problem at part throttle or cruising mode. Say you are cruising at the highway, enjoying the drive with <i>Siti Nurhaliza</i> song on the radio, then all of the sudden a Wiralution passes by, and you decided to harass them, if you're on 70mm, the moment you drop the gear and floor the gas pedal, there is a high chance that the engine will first bog down for a few seconds, before it accelerates again. Now that's embarrassing, and frustrating too! With 68mm, plus the medium compression engine and Stage 2 cam that I am using, that never happens. Big is not always better. I'm talking about throttle bodies! The same can't be said for other things, for example, boobs, among others.<br />
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A few other plus features of the Skunk2 throttle body are the personalized serial number (supposedly the serial number is unique), and the MAP sensor has been relocated to the bottom, hence improving it appearance as well. Be sure to port match it to your intake manifold, it's a must!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia4_Ptel59rQI0VYJbZ8biJUgl0EmRnseAWHSRC5HDIQqvzhpXxjj2t2psH-YfTjOr2FCZPPbMNSw50kFBKUforWkHYCj5U7znLKNm6-VVGh6i20qDKh1XXIh23v5oB0O017Lj_wlMiXWF/s1600/DSC02875.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia4_Ptel59rQI0VYJbZ8biJUgl0EmRnseAWHSRC5HDIQqvzhpXxjj2t2psH-YfTjOr2FCZPPbMNSw50kFBKUforWkHYCj5U7znLKNm6-VVGh6i20qDKh1XXIh23v5oB0O017Lj_wlMiXWF/s320/DSC02875.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMEms2m9BRuTLRokWkSgdAM2-3vfQOBCfeHVyNAzZCVmUNvcjpa_K8B86DfE5SIWT2U2aCjBkaKwSGORF6RS4vg56JXnvnm-7BLUJb6UrfDs5VJKqvb0gMqxwkZgw9S-rMeu1WDVYkpSJg/s1600/DSC02871.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMEms2m9BRuTLRokWkSgdAM2-3vfQOBCfeHVyNAzZCVmUNvcjpa_K8B86DfE5SIWT2U2aCjBkaKwSGORF6RS4vg56JXnvnm-7BLUJb6UrfDs5VJKqvb0gMqxwkZgw9S-rMeu1WDVYkpSJg/s320/DSC02871.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqj5KOo-yMY64BJ0mKMjPEM999zXT0ZUBoqcD65TYsnmAah3nZJnnbb_4KF2RDWIGNdBosKf3D2N5PLQj_CVPBjIBeVv_PIYio0YYZjmtPIlYkFlScjS93-mNf8F4IfUFDHVRHCWMOuK3k/s1600/DSC02876.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqj5KOo-yMY64BJ0mKMjPEM999zXT0ZUBoqcD65TYsnmAah3nZJnnbb_4KF2RDWIGNdBosKf3D2N5PLQj_CVPBjIBeVv_PIYio0YYZjmtPIlYkFlScjS93-mNf8F4IfUFDHVRHCWMOuK3k/s320/DSC02876.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>GoldMember74http://www.blogger.com/profile/07331385327047458223noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5698758603278600229.post-106650105723815392011-07-17T06:29:00.000-07:002011-07-17T06:29:59.767-07:00Engine: Cams and Valvetrain ComponentsNow to the important decision for most engine builders: Which cams to use?<br />
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Have I mentioned that this is going to be a Skunk2 equipped engine? If not, well it is. But still, which cams? I have done my research and I am leaning towards the Pro Series off course, due to its superior mid-range gains in comparison with the Tuner Series. I might be driving my car to work as well, so I need those mid-range torque rather than having to rev at top rpm just to overtake sightseeing vehicles on the road. So I explained my intention and constraints to Chris (Pentagon) and he recommended the Pro 2+, especially since the engine is going to be somewhat in the 12+ static compression ratio, so the Pro 3+ is out of the question. Remember that in order to make power with high profile camshafts the engine need to have the minimum static compression ratio, or else you're gonna lose power instead of gaining more. So again, don't be greedy (i.e. gila kuasa!), let's reserve the extreme for later!<br />
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As for the cam pulleys, I went for the Tuner Series instead. To me, it looks nicer than the Pro Series ones. And it's available in Blue. I like Blue. Who doesn't?<br />
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The Pro Series valvesprings to go with the Pro Series camshafts:<br />
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The Titanium retainers set:<br />
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And finally, the Forged valves, standard sizes, high-compression units:<br />
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Here's the valves all lined up and numbered, ready for installation. All the valve locks or keepers are also brand new, using Honda OEM units.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQXLI15frRfdyXXRFphDENVtJ8wosNxMDnoz12Ob5AeDeK1KJMTbr1UXaKU7wGtwMMzAXoCypKV3DtjmNdXAz8Tc1OOGyb7bqEt2D_WgCmlD4F9LD07uzRePiLHOMEl9uK8yowmvKkzB-3/s1600/DSC01406.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQXLI15frRfdyXXRFphDENVtJ8wosNxMDnoz12Ob5AeDeK1KJMTbr1UXaKU7wGtwMMzAXoCypKV3DtjmNdXAz8Tc1OOGyb7bqEt2D_WgCmlD4F9LD07uzRePiLHOMEl9uK8yowmvKkzB-3/s320/DSC01406.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>GoldMember74http://www.blogger.com/profile/07331385327047458223noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5698758603278600229.post-4900305692789525702011-07-17T05:49:00.000-07:002011-07-17T05:49:44.711-07:00Engine: Cylinder HeadThe cylinder head was originally from a B16B as well. It was then further enhanced with 3-angle valve jobs, as well as ported and polished to improve air flow. Due to the unavailability of proper air flow bench equipment, we had to rely on the expertise and experience of my mechanic Din, who had many years of engine building experience. Without the test equipment, there is really no way for us to measure the improvement (or not!) of the cylinder head air flow after the process. Nevertheless, upon visual inspection of the finished product, it was not bad at all! We just hope it'll work as good as it looks. Check it out:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnnioYhd1EU38R26npbJjAp0m60t4w786VUqxWV6Erv44PqR4DhwlWLstiW7iXlkdGpGJeGHzNbunQ27KwO63iLL5yWIPkBbImSZ_uar-NsCzIgkZE6RvVj7QOO-q6g_IaqaNNXKPYEYRr/s1600/DSC01400.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnnioYhd1EU38R26npbJjAp0m60t4w786VUqxWV6Erv44PqR4DhwlWLstiW7iXlkdGpGJeGHzNbunQ27KwO63iLL5yWIPkBbImSZ_uar-NsCzIgkZE6RvVj7QOO-q6g_IaqaNNXKPYEYRr/s320/DSC01400.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>GoldMember74http://www.blogger.com/profile/07331385327047458223noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5698758603278600229.post-13856116176701373912011-07-08T05:32:00.000-07:002011-07-08T05:59:39.363-07:00Engine: Block and Rotating AssembliesThe block of choice for my build up was the B16B from the Honda Civic EK9. Quite simply because since it is from the "R" family, so supposedly it should be able to take the high revving beatings that we plan on giving it. And since it shares the same dimensions as its big brother the B18CR means that it can be stroked up to 1800cc while maintaining its modest appearance as if it is a 1600cc engine. Its original internals (77.4mm crankshaft and 142.42mm connecting rod) were ditched, probably had ended up somewhere in the metal junkyard. Luckily its PCT 81mm pistons had some worth in the second hand markets, so they were sold to a friend.<br />
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A used set of 87.2mm crankshaft and 137.9mm connecting rods from the B18CR engine were bought from a friend, Chris Tan of <a href="http://www.pentagon.com.my/">Pentagon Enterprise</a>. He is also the responsible guy who had introduced me to the whole line of Skunk2 product, and eventually became the main supplier of the majority of the engine component for this build. These are the crankshafts and connecting rods when I got them from him.<br />
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The physical proofs that they are indeed Type R parts.<br />
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The pistons were 82mm Wiseco Forged pistons (P/N: K566M82), which was considered as medium compression that would produce 11.8 - 12.25:1 static compression ratio. This was my first engine build, so I figured, let's be modest and safe first, rather than aiming for the sky. If we survive this, perhaps we'll gather enough knowledge and experience to build something more extreme later on. Here are the pistons.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The pistons and the connecting rods now assembled and ready for installation.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYavD2oNrmgKvaYXid6X6R9f6pCkFJYBYW5jLry27LNRo5ZEoYCuCGjsAzsZpYtvdObTxlpD2p8CMq3YP5RCUhj4SCgjKu0xdew2n3z1lMVjopZLIz260fHa_RGcommd_rvxye3y_btrtp/s1600/DSC01402.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYavD2oNrmgKvaYXid6X6R9f6pCkFJYBYW5jLry27LNRo5ZEoYCuCGjsAzsZpYtvdObTxlpD2p8CMq3YP5RCUhj4SCgjKu0xdew2n3z1lMVjopZLIz260fHa_RGcommd_rvxye3y_btrtp/s320/DSC01402.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The block was earlier sent to a machine shop in Sg Besi for the the process of boring, honing and fitting of the 82mm pistons, as well as balancing all the rotating assembly components (including the flywheel). It was a basic and simple process actually, but since there were very, very few machining shop that are capable of doing it at that time, it took almost 3-4 months, where the majority of the time was waiting for my turn for the machine. And the queue was very, very long indeed. Once done, all of them were taken back to the workshop, where my chief mechanic, Din (a.k.a. Din Danau Kota, Din Kecik) of Speedtune Autoworks, will demonstrate his excellent skills on engine building.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And here's the engine block, completely assembled, with the block brace in place as well.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU_AFxUg55bDhufHsT-HpJ4fn4-icbHyQ8pl9HHUlWU6DF4giSmbYCq4mFg_3bR8O8nRrafGX3-H-6rQHJzjgAsJVVAA1gOsI4gtm3Kt_hkRgtO51ilJ9wbF4D0Lmi2g2KzNEjl2f4tLlj/s1600/DSC01408.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU_AFxUg55bDhufHsT-HpJ4fn4-icbHyQ8pl9HHUlWU6DF4giSmbYCq4mFg_3bR8O8nRrafGX3-H-6rQHJzjgAsJVVAA1gOsI4gtm3Kt_hkRgtO51ilJ9wbF4D0Lmi2g2KzNEjl2f4tLlj/s320/DSC01408.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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</div>GoldMember74http://www.blogger.com/profile/07331385327047458223noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5698758603278600229.post-83179601758684472062011-07-05T06:15:00.000-07:002011-07-18T06:33:19.978-07:00The Reason Behind All These.....and the Test BedOK at this point, I need to let you know that the engine build up had actually started much, much earlier than the arrival of the GoldMember. Originally, I had no concrete plan on seriously participating in any drag racing. Quite frankly, here is the reason for the engine build up.<br />
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At that time around late 2007 or early 2008, majority of my fellow enthusiasts in engine modification were very much into JDM components for their build. Brands such as Spoon, Mugen, Jun, Toda and the likes, from the land of the rising sun, were all over the place. Sought after by many, has caused the prices to go beyond reach for "pokai" person like myself. Yeah I know fast and cheap doesn't always rhyme together, but there must be an alternative to go fast, without having to sell your kidney for a pair of Jun 3 cams. That's when I turn to USDM products. Brands like Skunk2 came into the picture. I realized that I could get a complete set of brand new Skunk2 cams, valve spring and retainer at a fraction of the price for a used Jun 3 cams only. There you go, once you go American, there is no turning back!<br />
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So I started "collecting" USDM products for the engine build. And my only car at that time, a Honda Civic EK3, was about to be the test bed for my engine build.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqQCf9A7nQY-fnim8l32fSegx2VIy-hDHAqG9qj7pjrvlAKNuFGBOjh-4nOcL54oYi0IO8gxZLWUqTFy5z-ejrRl6nUsDzK56mMtE77CoDWBgyewSHHf1eONnZNprpuesJzGdJiMGoDmwD/s1600/DSC02993_edit.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqQCf9A7nQY-fnim8l32fSegx2VIy-hDHAqG9qj7pjrvlAKNuFGBOjh-4nOcL54oYi0IO8gxZLWUqTFy5z-ejrRl6nUsDzK56mMtE77CoDWBgyewSHHf1eONnZNprpuesJzGdJiMGoDmwD/s320/DSC02993_edit.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj76xPIw0rdbv0Vm4mhvioQaE0hEipnQtZH7jih7WefW74Lkff6yfL0odJeP4dysuoTGulv1o0JwBJn_KgTITC6oLll7tFO8I7zCi-lsdP8SPlMYf5xksLKV8xYV_rCq_8LVQPDM5CcILou/s1600/DSC02995_edit.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj76xPIw0rdbv0Vm4mhvioQaE0hEipnQtZH7jih7WefW74Lkff6yfL0odJeP4dysuoTGulv1o0JwBJn_KgTITC6oLll7tFO8I7zCi-lsdP8SPlMYf5xksLKV8xYV_rCq_8LVQPDM5CcILou/s320/DSC02995_edit.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Details on the engine build components are next. Stay tuned!GoldMember74http://www.blogger.com/profile/07331385327047458223noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5698758603278600229.post-13430913481193728082011-07-04T05:18:00.000-07:002011-07-04T05:19:34.742-07:00Chasis: New Color, New NameAmong the very first to be done in the makeover process, is the appearance. While the light blue color might be cool in the US, over here my friends call it "Bas Kilang". So it has to go. I need it to be bright, but there are much too many "Spoon Yellow" around. Something rare, but not too rare that it'll become weird. I prefer the paint to be a standard mix directly off the chart, so it'll be easier should I need to do minor touch up in the future.<br />
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So finally, I had picked this from the chart on the wall of CYT Paintworks in Puchong.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKbMEOqs998hjbHjuu-ZpAubaSkmD8XO5E5HdkYaq1MogNO7y0F02rS6_sJYTSWBgwYq5E9oQJ-0bFbCL75gMW7N8-VFuFZwaAnzQhkXk_s2R13ejsY2n4mwpxVtywF-3jW2rGUs65J0r3/s1600/20110108_004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKbMEOqs998hjbHjuu-ZpAubaSkmD8XO5E5HdkYaq1MogNO7y0F02rS6_sJYTSWBgwYq5E9oQJ-0bFbCL75gMW7N8-VFuFZwaAnzQhkXk_s2R13ejsY2n4mwpxVtywF-3jW2rGUs65J0r3/s320/20110108_004.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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Yeah, dude. It is in fact the paint code for rims: AK 26705 Sport Rim Paint Work Steel Gold, and I'm using it for the whole body. Hence the new name: The GoldMember.<br />
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Here's the GoldMember in the making.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB55wQlSHvIpx6SJuMPuylIq9XPdAG-wgI8sO2ofpEYq1xuWTbKb1pO-boVfjJ1YO9ybRcO6cbqETVE_NWZUSPq-NlPG6NNj15ePlf9CcjAw0qsI5zqFvI1xHFJhX1_PNiZ48a1kKAyk0E/s1600/DSC06134.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB55wQlSHvIpx6SJuMPuylIq9XPdAG-wgI8sO2ofpEYq1xuWTbKb1pO-boVfjJ1YO9ybRcO6cbqETVE_NWZUSPq-NlPG6NNj15ePlf9CcjAw0qsI5zqFvI1xHFJhX1_PNiZ48a1kKAyk0E/s320/DSC06134.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5lHFTny6ffEgRR64T96jhcW5KEX4GhNjPXxb7cwsDvSQPnaCOoqw3S5L_6gNhngjrheL4_al8guxIGi9yS1QzwwV445yYKxWnBEJtjMuGSePSws-p2ab_l3ofiYD9iWnUUGUkbklrIm_P/s1600/DSC06132.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5lHFTny6ffEgRR64T96jhcW5KEX4GhNjPXxb7cwsDvSQPnaCOoqw3S5L_6gNhngjrheL4_al8guxIGi9yS1QzwwV445yYKxWnBEJtjMuGSePSws-p2ab_l3ofiYD9iWnUUGUkbklrIm_P/s320/DSC06132.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZtNOdaizAC5S-va9wO1D70cVjITBh_Ds72go16yZ8ZVkHTryLqw92LtB2huh2yDSLWbs8yq2dTxTM1EwskoDbv_JJKTfJJPpryFGFR1S7FZK2h5j_DOmzW9fmy2KWQpZRHTnHiLw78sC4/s1600/DSC06133.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZtNOdaizAC5S-va9wO1D70cVjITBh_Ds72go16yZ8ZVkHTryLqw92LtB2huh2yDSLWbs8yq2dTxTM1EwskoDbv_JJKTfJJPpryFGFR1S7FZK2h5j_DOmzW9fmy2KWQpZRHTnHiLw78sC4/s320/DSC06133.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>GoldMember74http://www.blogger.com/profile/07331385327047458223noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5698758603278600229.post-8792870162105664532011-07-03T08:10:00.000-07:002011-07-03T08:10:21.661-07:00Engine: LPT TurboThe previous owner was kind enough to let me have this car complete with the LPT Turbo kit in it. Boosted at 0.4 Bar, the previous owner informed me that this setup was rather an "unfinished" project of his, and it could be further enhanced to produce more power to the wheel (Hint: Put more money in it!). Well, at that time I have no interest (and knowledge) about Turbo, so I kept it at is was for awhile. It was quite fun though with the wastegate sound and all, but not being able to use the whole rpm range (and some more!) on the stock meter cluster (typical NA VTEC syndrome), I just couldn't keep this for too long. Heck I was even having problem to keep up with a "near stock" B16A powered car during a friendly "training" session, as the LPT engine went flat at about 4500rpm.<br />
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Here are some photos of the LPT Turbo 1.6L SOHC engine.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAiJrEIRq7v9bXqxnj1hxNw_-JLXBvRqEcZ1HilIgVUFp_Uequ3B_fEVwzrzpoj7CQxvqtB5hziKR3K1bf3eYIQw0fwfTnGMAUBENh8xy9Ql0xt3t8y4bs70qfTwKMblBAe4MBiX9SD6tx/s1600/DSC04597edit.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAiJrEIRq7v9bXqxnj1hxNw_-JLXBvRqEcZ1HilIgVUFp_Uequ3B_fEVwzrzpoj7CQxvqtB5hziKR3K1bf3eYIQw0fwfTnGMAUBENh8xy9Ql0xt3t8y4bs70qfTwKMblBAe4MBiX9SD6tx/s320/DSC04597edit.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>GoldMember74http://www.blogger.com/profile/07331385327047458223noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5698758603278600229.post-47614248902009322252011-07-03T07:28:00.000-07:002011-07-03T08:11:00.082-07:00Chasis: The OriginThe chasis is an EH2 Honda Civic, the MDM (Malaysian Domestic Market) equivalent to the JDM's Honda Civic EG. Manufactured in 1992, I have no idea how many people has owned it before me, but I purchased it from a gentleman in Gombak in June 2009 for RM21,000.00. At the time of purchased, it was in painted in light blue and powered by a 1.6L SOHC LPT Turbo.<br />
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Here are the photos of the car as it reached to my hand.<br />
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